Colorado Plateau
Grand Canyon, Zion, Petrified Forest, Sedona, Moab, Monument Valley: these are just a few of the world class destinations that are located in the Colorado Plateau. Covering vast swathes of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah, this region is something of an enigma to geologists. It is a subprovince of a vast mountainous uplift spanning the western margins of North America and South America known as the Western Cordillera. Over the course of hundreds of millions of years subduction along the west coasts of both continents has brought along Japan-sized landmasses as if they were riding an enormous conveyor belt and collided them with North America. Much of California is an in fact a former chain of islands similar to present-day Japan or the Phillipines that smashed and then accreted onto North America. Like two cars colliding head-on, these continental collisions were violent from a geologic point of view resulting in large earthquakes and massive deformation of the rocks that composed them. When you look at them, they are folded and metamorphosed, and even non-geologists can tell that these rocks have undergone a lot of abuse.
The Colorado Plateau is a part of the Western Cordillera, but unlike the neighboring geologic provinces, the rocks here are largely undisturbed, forming flat, unmetamorphosed rocks that are a key component of the Plateau's scenery. Equally perplexing is the relatively high relief of the Plateau which averages around 1,500 meters high, but can exceed 3,000 meters in some areas. Uplift of the entire Plateau has caused rivers to cut deeply into the rocks creating the beautiful canyon landscapes, including slot canyons that can be hundreds of meters deep, yet be only a few meters wide at the top and bottom. Unique to the Plateau are entrenched meanders, rivers with wide oxbow bends (typical of large silt-laden rivers such as the Mississippi, Nile, or Amazon) that have eroded downwards to create canyons with wide oxbow bends.
Some geologists have hypothesized that rocks deep underneath the Plateau are unusually rigid and more resistent to deformation. A similar analogy is the Taklimakan Desert in China which is surrounded on three sides by the Himalayan uplift. Geophysical imaging underneath the desert indicates that the crust underneath the desert is strong and relatively resistant to deformation. Similar imaging has been attempted underneath the Plateau, but have been inconcolusive.
The Colorado Plateau is a part of the Western Cordillera, but unlike the neighboring geologic provinces, the rocks here are largely undisturbed, forming flat, unmetamorphosed rocks that are a key component of the Plateau's scenery. Equally perplexing is the relatively high relief of the Plateau which averages around 1,500 meters high, but can exceed 3,000 meters in some areas. Uplift of the entire Plateau has caused rivers to cut deeply into the rocks creating the beautiful canyon landscapes, including slot canyons that can be hundreds of meters deep, yet be only a few meters wide at the top and bottom. Unique to the Plateau are entrenched meanders, rivers with wide oxbow bends (typical of large silt-laden rivers such as the Mississippi, Nile, or Amazon) that have eroded downwards to create canyons with wide oxbow bends.
Some geologists have hypothesized that rocks deep underneath the Plateau are unusually rigid and more resistent to deformation. A similar analogy is the Taklimakan Desert in China which is surrounded on three sides by the Himalayan uplift. Geophysical imaging underneath the desert indicates that the crust underneath the desert is strong and relatively resistant to deformation. Similar imaging has been attempted underneath the Plateau, but have been inconcolusive.
Much of the scenery that makes the Colorado Plateau so interesting seems to occur randomly. Even when you're far away from any well-known sites, interesting rock formations will appear in the middle of nowhere. These formations exemplifies how the most beautiful sights are merely random convergences of the different forces of nature. As we drove across the Plateau, I often thought what rock formations existed in the past? And what formations will form in the future? I think many geologists have a secret fantasy of living a billion or so years just to see how the landscapes will change over time.
The Colorado Plateau is also famous for its archaeological sites. Seen here is Mesa Verde in southwestern Colorado. Mesa Verde can get a lot of tourists. If you're interested in a more intimate experience, Keet Seel in Navajo National Monument is an 8 mile hike through spectacular canyon country. You will likely be the only visitor on any given day, however, a ranger is posted there 24/7 to prevent vandalism and theft.
Permanent settlements such as Mesa Verde became rather sophisticated and included large multi-level structures in New Mexico. However, they did not last very long, particularly since the Indians who occupied them depended on foraging and hunting for most of their food needs. Farming was the primary motivation for building such villages, but since the Indians did not know about crop rotation, the soils quickly became depleted and crop yields declined precipitously. The villages were abandoned shortly afterwards.
Permanent settlements such as Mesa Verde became rather sophisticated and included large multi-level structures in New Mexico. However, they did not last very long, particularly since the Indians who occupied them depended on foraging and hunting for most of their food needs. Farming was the primary motivation for building such villages, but since the Indians did not know about crop rotation, the soils quickly became depleted and crop yields declined precipitously. The villages were abandoned shortly afterwards.
Much of the spectacular cliffs seen throughout the Colorado Plateau is due to the Navajo Sandstone, a 200 million year old sandstone that represents ancient dune sands deposited when the area was part of the supercontinent of Pangea. The rock is well cemented making it highly resistant to erosion, hence its prominance in many of the cliffs and majestic rock formations throughout the plateau.
In this photo of Wall Street in Arches National Park, you can see how resistant the Navajo Sandstone which comprises the sheer cliffs in the top two thirds of the photo versus the softer, poorly cemented shales and sandstones forming the more subdued topography in the bottom third of the photo.
In addition to Arches, the Navajo Sandstone is a key component of the scenery at Canyonlands, Escalante, and Zion National Parks.
In this photo of Wall Street in Arches National Park, you can see how resistant the Navajo Sandstone which comprises the sheer cliffs in the top two thirds of the photo versus the softer, poorly cemented shales and sandstones forming the more subdued topography in the bottom third of the photo.
In addition to Arches, the Navajo Sandstone is a key component of the scenery at Canyonlands, Escalante, and Zion National Parks.
Another feature associated with the Navajo Sandstone are arches. Arches are rare in nature because of the low tensile strength of rock. If concrete bridges didn't have a steel skeleton for strength, for example, they would have to be replaced every few years. Arches are relatively common in the Colorado Plateau because of a combination of the arid climate and the high strength of the Navajo Sandstone.
Arches beg to be explored and played on, but the National Park Service has banned exploration on many arches for fear that the parks will become the focus of the Darwin Awards. Arches outside the national parks, however, are fair game and one arch, Corona Arch near Moab, has spawned a new sport: arch swinging. Looking at the YouTube video (link below), it stretches the design limits of rock climbing equipment to the maximum. Already one death has occurred and I'm sure more will follow.
Arches beg to be explored and played on, but the National Park Service has banned exploration on many arches for fear that the parks will become the focus of the Darwin Awards. Arches outside the national parks, however, are fair game and one arch, Corona Arch near Moab, has spawned a new sport: arch swinging. Looking at the YouTube video (link below), it stretches the design limits of rock climbing equipment to the maximum. Already one death has occurred and I'm sure more will follow.
Another feature composed of Navajo Sandstone are the various monolithic formations of the Monument Valley. Here, the sandstone has eroded into a wide diversity of rock formations, the most impressive of which is the Totem Pole seen on the left. The delicate spire was featured in the Clint Eastwood film The Eiger Sanction in which Eastwood and George Kennedy are filmed on top of the spire. Reportedly, they were airlifted to the top of the spire and it technically remains unclimbed (the Navajo Nation forbids any climbing within the valley). However if you google the Totem Pole, you see pictures of clandestine ascents from the 1970s.
Canyonlands National Park is another park much of whose scenery is held up by the Navajo Sandstone. Seen here is the Needles area in the southern section of the park.
Perhaps the most elegant display of the Navajo Sandstone is at Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona. This canyon is a classic example of a slot canyon and many of the Colorado Plateau's slot canyons occur in the Navajo Sandstone. Slot canyons are narrow canyons in which the top of the canyon is just as narrow as the bottom. We think of stream-cut canyons as being V-shaped in profile. This V-shaped profile is due to the vulnerability of the rock to weathering and climate which either promotes or inhibits weathering. Any degree of weathering results in V-shaped valleys and canyons. However, when weathering is minimal as it usually is in arid climates, then lack of erosion results in slot canyons.
Again, the Navajo Sandstone's competency and its location in an arid climate are why slot canyons exist in the Colorado Plateau. Another outstanding feature of the Navajo Sandstone is its vibrant shades of red, orange, and pink. These colors are due to the presence of iron, magnesium, and manganese. Very small amounts of these metal oxides are all that are needed to create deep, saturated colors.
Again, the Navajo Sandstone's competency and its location in an arid climate are why slot canyons exist in the Colorado Plateau. Another outstanding feature of the Navajo Sandstone is its vibrant shades of red, orange, and pink. These colors are due to the presence of iron, magnesium, and manganese. Very small amounts of these metal oxides are all that are needed to create deep, saturated colors.
Sunlight filtering through the walls of Antelope Canyon creates even more saturated colors which is why it is the site some of the most beautiful photographs anywhere. Antelope Canyon is unique among slot canyons in that it is just the right depth for photography. Other slot canyons are so deep that the light that reaches the bottom is too weak to create the vibrant colors seen in Antelope Canyon.
Slot canyons are some of the most dangerous places to be in during thunderstorms. What's deceiving about them is that the skies above may be clear, but if there's a storm somewhere within the canyon's drainage even if its many kilometers away, a flash flood will be unleashed within the slot canyon. Unlike other types of drainages, you have no means of escape in a slot canyon unless you're lucky enough to chimney your way up. Eleven photographers were killed in 1997 when a thunderstorm 12 kilometers away unleashed a flash flood into Antelope Canyon.
Slot canyons are some of the most dangerous places to be in during thunderstorms. What's deceiving about them is that the skies above may be clear, but if there's a storm somewhere within the canyon's drainage even if its many kilometers away, a flash flood will be unleashed within the slot canyon. Unlike other types of drainages, you have no means of escape in a slot canyon unless you're lucky enough to chimney your way up. Eleven photographers were killed in 1997 when a thunderstorm 12 kilometers away unleashed a flash flood into Antelope Canyon.
Another interesting effect of slot canyons that is best seen in Antelope Canyon is the shaft of light effect at noon. Unfortunately, in Antelope Canyon, everyone knows about this and the noon tours are often booked weeks in advance (especially around the time of the solstice when the shaft is most prominent). Even when you are able to get a space in the noon tour, you have to deal with hundreds of other tourists trying to get a photograph of the same thing.
Another popular slot canyon is the Narrows in Zion National Park which also occurs in the Navajo Sandstone. The Narrows is much larger in scale when compared to Antelope Canyon and is an altogether different experience. Most groups just hike the lower 1-2 miles starting at the trailhead at the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. However, there is also the 14 mile shuttle the begins in Orderville Canyon and ends in the Narrows.
The Colorado Plateau is one of the most popular places for the sport of canyoneering. Advanced canyoneering involves the use of rock climbing equipment, wetsuits, and gear specially adapted for canyoneering, and can be quite dangerous. The film 127 Hours is based on the true story of a canyoneering accident that occured in Canyonlands National Park.
The Colorado Plateau is one of the most popular places for the sport of canyoneering. Advanced canyoneering involves the use of rock climbing equipment, wetsuits, and gear specially adapted for canyoneering, and can be quite dangerous. The film 127 Hours is based on the true story of a canyoneering accident that occured in Canyonlands National Park.
Not all of the Colorado Plateau's most spectacular landmarks involve the Navajo Sandstone. Bryce Canyon is an example of a badlands. Badlands typically involve poorly consolidated rocks that are easy to erode, the exact opposite of the Navajo Sandstone. At Bryce Canyon, you see towers of crumbly rock that from a distance, look as if they were made of ice cream that is slowly melting. Other examples of badlands include Badlands National Park in South Dakota, Cappadoccia, Turkey, and Purmamarca in the Quebrada de Humuhuaca, Argentina.
Logistics
You will need to rent a car if you want to see multiple destinations, however, if you plan to spend large amounts of time at each destination, especially national parks, shuttle and taxi services may be provided by the parks or resorts. For those not willing to rough it, RV rentals are a much better alternative to hotels as staying in the campgrounds offer a more intimate experience.
Always plan to go sightseeing at dusk and dawn since that is when the colors are most vibrant. Stormy days (especially when thunderstorms are around) are also great opportunities for photography.
For those of you who explore by private car, the multidimensional nature of the Plateau means that you will always run out of time before you run out of sites to see. If you travel on a set itinerary, you will likely miss out on those little hidden gems that you discover along the way. However, if you make up your itinerary as you go along, you might miss out on the high-priority sites. Pick your poison wisely!
If you are hopping between national parks, getting an annual parks pass will save you money on entrance fees. When traveling in Indian reservations, be aware that the laws and regulations tend to be more restrictive and onerous. Hiking and other forms of trespassing are often forbidden for religious or other reasons. Fees may be charged or local guides must be hired for access to other areas. If you're really interested in exploring a particular area, permission may be granted by the local tribal council, but this will need to be obtained in advance, sometimes weeks or months in advance.
Always plan to go sightseeing at dusk and dawn since that is when the colors are most vibrant. Stormy days (especially when thunderstorms are around) are also great opportunities for photography.
For those of you who explore by private car, the multidimensional nature of the Plateau means that you will always run out of time before you run out of sites to see. If you travel on a set itinerary, you will likely miss out on those little hidden gems that you discover along the way. However, if you make up your itinerary as you go along, you might miss out on the high-priority sites. Pick your poison wisely!
If you are hopping between national parks, getting an annual parks pass will save you money on entrance fees. When traveling in Indian reservations, be aware that the laws and regulations tend to be more restrictive and onerous. Hiking and other forms of trespassing are often forbidden for religious or other reasons. Fees may be charged or local guides must be hired for access to other areas. If you're really interested in exploring a particular area, permission may be granted by the local tribal council, but this will need to be obtained in advance, sometimes weeks or months in advance.